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Austin Overrated: No, you should NOT eat at that Austin institution

18 March 2010 1,414 views View Comments

Like many locals, I get a bit angry when SXSW rolls around each year. Our city swells to the point of supersaturation, the traffic is horrendous, there are lines at restaurants we can usually get into easily, and those who work downtown (like me) are subjected to the sound of loud music and revelry while we toil away at our desks.

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And while I get annoyed at some of the people who come here (see my friends Boots in the Oven’s posts on fashion at SXSW for examples), I still firmly believe that life is too short to eat overrated food.

I wanted to take a few minutes to give our out of town friends some honest tips on where NOT to waste your time eating while in Austin for SXSW. Like any city, Austin has restaurants that we are famous for. Some of these spots live up to the hype and some do not. Here is a quick blog post on where to avoid along with some alternative dining options.

For the love and pride in the wonderful eats options the city of Austin offers, please don’t listen to whomever told you to eat at these over-hyped and often disappointing restaurants*:

  1. Gueros Taco Bar
  2. Chuy’s
  3. Hut’s Hamburgers
  4. Threadgill’s
  5. Hoover’s
  6. The Mighty Cone
  7. Hyde Park Bar & Grill
  8. Cisco’s
  9. Trudy’s
  10. Hey Cupcake

I apologize if my decision to include any of the restaurants above hurt your feelings or made you feel indignant. Please note that they are in no particular order but here’s my rationale for including each of them: I don’t taste the love in their food. As we all know, love is the most important ingredient and while some of the spots above have been in business for a long time and used to put the love in there, from my experience, they don’t anymore.

Alternatives include:

Instead of Threadgill’s or Hoover’s for Southern-style comfort food, how about Lambert’s, The Woodland, or even Night Hawk Frisco Shop.

Choices abound when it comes to Tex-Mex but Guero’s, Trudy’s, and Chuy’s are limp versions of what Tex-Mex can be. For fun atmosphere, strong margaritas, and killer salsa, I recommend Polvos.

Hut’s Hamburgers was the gold standard in Austin for many years but now are known mostly for their onion rings. Great burgers are not hard to come by in our great state but my personal favorites are the Big Ass Burger at Roaring Fork and the ones they serve at 24 Diner with the Challah bun. They also serve burgers at Casino el Camino and Jackalope and I’ve heard good things about both.

To me, both the Mighty Cone  and Hey Cupcake are the most overrated food trailers. I fell in love with the chicken cones served at the Hudson’s on the Bend booth at Austin City Limits two years ago and had one every day. However, when Hudson’s decided to open a year-round trailer, the magic of those cones seemed to disappear. I find them generally lacking in excitement and flavor and the french fries they serve are worse. Hey Cupcake is an adorable looking trailer and a great marketing idea but their cake is dry to me. As an alternative to these trailers, there is a plethora of other trailers and small, family owned small businesses who are bringing love into every dish.

I probably feel the most guilty about thinking Cisco’s is overrated because of it’s long history in Austin and the many well-known Texas politicians who ate here regularly — including President Lyndon B. Johnson. Also, I’ve heard the family business is now for sale and might not be long for Austin. They are famous for their biscuits and migas and to me, the biscutis are heavy, hard, and make me feel like there is a lead weight in my stomach for the rest of the day.

Hyde Park Bar & Grill french fries are famous. They are battered, and then deep fried. I’m not much of a fan of battered fries in general and these just offend me. The spices used also turn me off. I once ordered a key lime pie here and it was barely edible. If you are in Hyde Park, I’d recommend going to Asti instead — each dish I’ve sampled there is delicious and the atmosphere is laid back and welcoming. If the weather is nice, pick up some cheese, crackers, and meats from Antonelli’s Cheese Shop and have a picnic.

*The opinions expressed here are my own and do not necessarily reflect the views of anyone else.

If you are a local or a regular, what Austin restaurants do you think are overrated? Which of the above do you disagree with? What would you add to the list?

For more thoughts from my fellow Austin food bloggers on the best food experiences to be had in Austin, check out Austin Food Lovers’ Companion, “The Food Lovers’ Guide to Austin

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  • Tex
    As a second-generation native Austinite (not AUSTONIAN like that ridiculously named building downtown--it should be AusTINian, but I digress), it is with great pleasure that I read this post. Having spent my entire life here I hate to see an Austin "institution" get thrashed, but so many of these places need a wake-up call. It is a tribute to this city's ideals that we take offense when one of our local establishments comes under fire. But many places that Austinites have reverence for are mediocre at best. Especially for expatriate Austinites whose memories of the city are from their college days, they forget that the city has evolved considerably in the last decade and a half. Magnolia and Kerbey Lane were great when you needed a place to go after a high school football game or for an all-night study marathon in college. But that does not mean they are great. Guero's is one of those places that newly minted Austinites take their parents on their first visit to Austin; but it is sure as hell not the pilgrimage site people make it out to be. The city has such a strange relationship with its restaurants--we get up in arms when a lackluster place like Maria's Taco Xpress gets the boot, but fail to support a place like Capitol Brasserie when they were trying to do something good and different downtown. We romanticize places like Huts as if we still lived in the 80s or 90s when that was the best thing around. Shuggies, from the folks that brought you Torchys, had truly remarkable burgers, and nobody bought them. I wish Austin diners & drinkers would get their heads and hearts out of their asses. It is one thing to support the local guy, but it is another to blow smoke, and proclaim things to be great when they are merely passable. And Jodi, I appreciate your courage in taking on this subject. It is hard to make a negative post especially about a topic people get so fired up about. I made a critical tweet about a beloved establishment the other day--one that is in honest need of constructive criticism--and started a small firestorm. I think all of this is part of the growing pains of a city and dining scene that are maturing at a quick clip. When people are used to tasting crap, they will proclaim a merely good drink to be great. When reviewers say "it was good, but it could have been better", some people will take offense. But as the scene matures and as the critics mature, I hope that people's expectations will also mature. The good and great places will thrive, the rest will suffer, or stay open to cater to that once-a-year onslaught of Austonians every spring...
  • I've never had a bad meal at Hoover's. That's the only one on this list I disagree with.
  • jodibart
    Respect.
  • local
    wow. this is one of the most snaughty and revolting posts i've seen on a blog in a while. really terrible. and how do you write a food blog and admit to never having eaten a burger at casino? really disgusting.
  • jodibart
    Do you mean snotty? Or snooty? Or haughty? Or a mixture of the three? I've had a burger at Casino -- went there with an ex-boyfriend on Valentines Day. It was just ok. I'd try it again though.
  • Ilyse
    The City of Austin should put this out as a public service announcement!!! ALmost 100% agreed, except, I do like the drinks at Trudy's mucho and you know my feelings about Hey Cupcake -- how can you not love cupcakes that taste like the ones you got at 4th grade bday parties?????? Anyways, Jodi, you are a genius. Keep up the good work, mi amiga.

    x,
    Ilyse
  • jodibart
    I do know your feelings about Hey Cupcake and I respect them. The one thing I like at Hey Cupcake (as you know) is that they serve (or at least used to serve) Celeste's Best vegan cupcakes and those are the bomb diggity.

    Also, the Mexican Martini at Trudy's has so much alcohol in it that it almost makes me think the food tastes good when I'm under the influence.
  • Ilyse
    that's why I love them so very much! Also, I swwwwwwwwwear that Hey Cupcake cupcakes are good when they are just out of the oven. After that though, agreed, they probably aren't worth it, but I love them anyway b/c my friend, Kari, and I going every year on our birthdays and share one so I'd prob. still love them if they were made of shoe leather.
  • I can't stand Kerbey Lane. Even their *gasp* breakfast is overrated. 24 Diner is my new late night food spot in town!
  • saycheeseplease7
    BLASPHEMY! Not really, you're totally entitled to your opinion - I'm just a big Kerbey Lane fan. I think it's because it's such a tradition of mine to visit when I go up with family or friends. I've heard good things about 24 Diner so your comment and this blog have definitely solidified my decision to go there the next time I visit our fine state's capital.
  • wamalarkey
    yeah, I tried a few "institutions" when I first moved here and was disappointed. Esp the Hyde Park Bar & Grill French fries. Truly nothing special about them at all. I was beginning to think I was crazy, so thanks!
  • Sara
    I think that some of those of restaurants come from a very nostalgic place. Even though I am only a part-time resident of Austin, I have been there off and on for almost 20 years (read: before the too-cool-for-school crowd came in to town and made it different. Not better, not worse, just different). I love Chuy's Tex-Mex and I would take a bath in their chunky salsa if I could. I named my wireless network after their amazing Special Enchiladas. The veggie burger at Hyde Park B & G is (or at least was) one of my favorites in town, and I love 2-for1 burgers at Hut's. Sure, are there better options out there? Yeah, there are, but I still love what, to me anyway, makes Austin my home :)
  • jodibart
    Since you are commenting from Brasil, the nostalgia is heightened, don't you think. We should do a blind taste test of veggie burgers and see if you still like it. BTW - 24 Diner has a KILLER veggie burger with actual veggies that you can discern inside. You must try when you come back home.
  • Sara
    Definitely nostalgic! But sometime I am nostalgic even when I am in Austin! :)
  • haha! I love that you made a list like this. It is very accurate! The only reason why I still eat at Guero's is they have a gluten-free menu and I don't have to worry about explaining things.
  • Thanks for posting this!

    While there's so much outstanding food here, no list of over-hyped, over-priced and generally disappointing Austin restaurants would be complete without mention of Houston's in the Crestview area..
  • jodibart
    You are so welcome. However, I must admit that Houston's is near and dear to my heart. We used to go all the time growing up in Maryland -- my cousin met his wife there and my best friend worked as a waitress at both the Austin and Bethesda, MD locations. I LOVE their ribs and fries but do admit that the prices are higher than they need to be.
  • Sea Island Mourner
    If only Sea Island Shrimp House were still around...
  • jodibart
    Ah, Mark!
  • jordanbucher
    The only time I ever threw up in my first pregnancy was after eating those godforsaken fries at Hyde Park Grill.
    And long live Sugar Mama's!
  • Thanks for posting the rare "do not eat here!" list -- often much more insightful than a "best places to eat" kind of list. Talking to SXSW'ers and hearing that they've just waited a couple of hours to eat at Güero's for some "real Tex Mex" makes me die inside.

    The only item on your top (bottom?) ten that I don't agree with is Hoover's, as they still make some great chicken fried chicken and their ham steak with jezebel sauce is a surprising delicacy (DO NOT get the po-boy at Hoover's though, you'll be disappointed). I'm actually very sad to with some of the others on the list as they were so so good back in the day and have fallen far from their apex. Hyde Park B&G, I'm looking at you.

    But as the Roman fella said: de gustibus non est disputandum...

    (PS: what's the story on the "Before Cones" place that was set up outside the convention center? A Mighty Cone knockoff, or?)
  • jodibart
    Thanks, Adam. Hoovers is by far the most disputed item on the list and you know I respect your opinion immensely.

    I didn't try that cones place at the convention center but it was definitely a Mighty Cone knockoff. I think they actually put sugar cereal in the cone. Genius?!
  • Tommy Sandwiches
    Nice list! I'd add Hula Hut and Shady Grove, but I still send folks to Hoover's. Also, Night Hawk is restaurant with a great personality and terrible food. And I never thought I'd see you dis the Chicken Cone! I had that on my "things to try" list solely on your raves, now will skip. Cheers!
  • jodibart
    Thanks for the note, "Tommy." Agree on Night Hawk for personality -- love those waitresses. The food is just ok but its fun to order their baked potato when they come over with toppings and add 'em on for you. Muy fancy!
  • Hi5 on your blog...I was just debating Chuy's, Hyde Park B&G, and Guero's with the girlfriend a couple of days ago. Nice to hear my theories echoed. I also heard something similar echoed about Hey Cupcake while discussing the merits of the Mighty Cone compared to an awesome trailer next to the donut trailer on South Lamar that I can't remember the name of (A rare pig maybe???). Appears you're not alone with your position.
  • jodibart
    Thanks, Ivan. What did your girlfriend say when you shared the blog with her? The awesome donut trailer is Gourdoughs. I love that place. The donut you are thinking of is called the flying pig -- donut, maple icing, bacon. YUM!
  • My girlfriend agreed on Guero's and Chuy's calls but said I'd have to try the Hyde Park fries myself. She admitted she was really hungry when she ate them last...we'll see. Also did some research on the awesome food trailer by the house. Here's their website. http://oddduckfarmtotrailer.com/ That's a pretty awesome menu for a trailer!
  • Ohhh, it makes me nuts to hear folks refer to Hey, Cupcake as the place to get cupcakes in town. Cute trailer, yes, but the goodness stops right there. Sugar Mama's, Cupprimo, Delish and my kitchen all have them beat! ;-)
  • jodibart
    Thanks, Summer! My heart belongs to Sugar Mama's but whenever you want to whip up a batch from your kitchen, I'd eat the heck out of those too!
  • Too!
  • + Torchy's. At least the last several times I've eaten there. Not nearly as good as when they first opened. I think they've spread themselves to thin with all of the different locations.
  • jodibart
    Good to know. I've only eaten at Torchy's once. I was sad that I missed the burger joint that Torchy's used to own. Shuggies....everyone loved it.
  • First and foremost, I appreciate your willingness to take on the idea of over-rated restaurants. So much restaurant writing is devoted to celebrating eateries, whether they deserve it or not.

    I agree with many of the places your over-rated list, and disagree with a few of your alternate suggestions. Asti, for example, has never done it for me. And I don't really see Lambert's or Roaring Fork as direct alternatives to Threadgill's and Hut's, since the former are significantly more expensive options. But back on an agreeable note, I lament the passing of the Hyde Park fries, which used to be things of wonder. They have, in the past few years, been battered into uninterestingness.
  • jodibart
    Thanks for your note. I figured that after more than a year and a half of food blogging, I deserved to go negative this once. You are right about Lamberts and RF not being direct alternatives to Threadgills or Huts. What do you think about Nubian Queen Lola's as an alternative to Threadgills?
  • drewthornley
    When I read the topic (and before I read your list), the places that came to mind were Hoover's, Threadgill's, and Guero's. And Hyde Park B&G isn't worth a stop, either, but I guess I didn't realize it was highly rated in the first place. Well done.
  • FoodieIsTheNewForty
    I. Could. Not. Agree. More. about Trudy's, Hut's, Mighty Cone, Chuy's, and Hey Cupcake. There are enough mildly redeeming qualities about the others to leave them off my "DON'T GO THERE!" list, but none of them are favorites, either.

    Also overrated: Aster's, Suzi's (noooooo!),Somnio's (Sorry. Love the idea; don't like the food), Quality Seafood, El Chilito, Austin's Pizza, Zocalo, Mama Fu's (again, nooooooooo!), any Austin "New York Deli"...should I go on? ;)
  • jodibart
    Agree about Suzi's. And Katz's of course. It goes without saying -- don't eat at a New York Style deli in Austin. For that, you must travel to Houston.
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